THE MOST CONSERVATIVE ISLAMIC NEIGHBOURHOODS FEATURE A STRONG CHRISTIAN AND JEWISH HERITAGE.

West of Sultanahmet and the Bazaar Quarter are some of the most religiously conservative neighbourhoods in Istanbul. In areas such as Fatih, Fener and Balat, headscarves, chadors and the baggy falvar trousers worn by devout men are much in evidence. But although now Islamic strongholds, these areas also provide a reminder that until as recently as the early 20th century, Christians and Jews made up some 40 per cent of Istanbul's population: the districts are sprinkled with churches, synagogues and Greek Orthodox schools. Also out this way is the Church of St Saviour in Chora, one of the city's most dazzling Byzantine monuments. Beyond the ancient city walls, the mosque at Eyüp offers a glimpse of a working pilgrimage site, with stunning views from the top of the hill behind. Visitors should dress modestly.