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During the second week of Ramazan in Üsküdar, one of Istanbul´s more conservative neighborhoods, piety is dropping. The litmus test for this is the amount of loud traffic arguments heard on the streets. The effect of the first round of fasting “drop-outs” is the obvious lack of near-lethal fistfights between drivers. This is the paradox of Ramazan, which reveals to me yet again some of the things I love best about this land. The pilav evi (rice restaurant) down the street has re-commenced serving some of the once faithful customers, and everyone else seems to be keeping their cool.
But when the emotional male shouts of anger reach the third floor of my apartment, I am ashamed to admit, I´m the first to pull the curtains and hang from the window chanting: “Fight! Fight! Fight!” as I get excited to my core. The only explanation I have for this sick reaction is that I am Greek. Really, there is nothing more thrilling than a good heated argument – “sans” fists.
To lived up to my heritage and the tempers of Ramazan when I found myself at Sultanahmet´s Hippodrome last weekend arguing about theology, of all things, with a German friend. It was late and we were sharing a smoky coal-brewed Turkish coffee; one of the delicacies offered there every evening during this bayram. There were lights and activity as people were drawn to one of Istanbul´s favorite Ramazan "carnivals." At the Hippodrome, the center of commerce, thought and social activity for centuries, some things haven´t changed.
What Ramazan is teaching me is that it´s not what happens to you or what you argue about, but how you react to it. Our reactions above anything else can change an entire experience.
A couple of days ago when the object of the shouting, a man in the small white van on the corner of our street, wouldn´t budge, a dozen fasting men came to the rescue. Some were just walking by, most were local shopkeepers and customers at the local café, who showed up to read their paper, dry.
They separated the two men with flailing and shaky arms and tended to their tempers. They were able to be in the moment and have clear heads for the two men.
More: http://www.turkishdailynews.com.tr/article.php?enewsid=115594
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Nice story! And true: in many EU countries this ´lost and found´ is not custom anymore, what a pity..!
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