Maybe I go in a few weeks time for about a week to Istanbul. I´ve been there already 3 times and I think I saw all major tourist attractions. This time I like to ´feel´ Istanbul, to see the (relatively) unknown places, to get off the beaten track.

What can you advice me? Where can/should I go for seeing, experiencing Istanbul in other ways than package deals and tour guides offer? 

As an İstanbullu i can give you some suggestions

first, if you want to feel istanbul, start from ortaköy. go the ortaköy and eat kumpir; sitting on the stone-platform in front of the mosque. sea is just under your feet and bosphorus in front of you. if you cant finish your kumpir, put it somewhere else and let piegons do it instead of you

the best place you can feel istanbul is taksim - istiklal street and its surrounding. Sıraselviler, the street that connects Taksim to Cihangir is another place to discover; with egzotic and interesting restaurants, bars and night clubs.

Cihangir is another nice Beyoğlu district where a lot Turkish famous people hang out.

if you are a little tired and want to have some rest and if you are lucky and weather is sunny, you can drink a glass of tea in Boğaz Cafe with a wonderful Bosphorus scene; an open-air cafe in the left-up corner of Taksim Gezi Park and nearby the avenue that goes to Beşiktaş.

actually, as an advice, if you want to feel İstanbul, dont make plans. Just get out of the place you stay and walk where you wish. Dont use transportation and go to every place by walking.

(take a map in your hand not to get lost)

this what i can say. hope you a have nice days in istanbul.

thx

turkishcobra//

 Very subtle way of looking for a tour guide  expect an increase in spam!

 Ahhrrmmm ... ahhrrmm .. cobra - as Istanbul is the only intercontinental city in the world, wouldn´t it be a good idea to cross the Bosphorus and visit us on the Asian side?

Stroll along Bağdat Caddesi, enjoy the view of the old city from the cliffs at Moda (and have the famous ice-cream), take a ferry to the islands from Bostancı, have a beer at the Divan at Fenerbahçe Marina (sitting on the decking and looking at the boats you could imagine you are in Antalya or Fethiye), see the fascinating toy museum at Göztepe, enjoy the market at Kadıköy, explore the mosques at Üsküdar, have yogurt at Kanlıca, enjoy a Turkish coffee at Çamlıca, wow at the art deco elevator at Hıdıv Kasrı, eat fish with a great view of the Bosphorus and the bridges at Çengelköy, explore a small but exquisite palace at Beylerbeyi, enjoy quaint Anadolu Hisarı, see the judas bloom at the Tema park ......

Have I sold it enough? Do I need to add call in and see us at Greenhouse in Kadıköy?

Hi 

I am also going to Istanbul for a few days in the near future. Does anybody have any details/advice about seeing the whilrling dervish dancing there?

Actually I have just seen that it is perfomed at the Hodjapasha cultural centre in the evenings. Has anyone been before and would they recommend it?

Thanks

 We will be there in March...wanna have coffee???

What about having a sunday breakfast in Bebek or in Çengelköy?? And having a lunch in Hisar ??

well - my knowledge about Asian side is not rich.

BTW, if you like nargile visit Tophane or Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi in Çemberlitaş. Hmmm..smell of nargile is really wonderful... you can also taste Ottoman-style Turkish coffe in these places.

Or, if weather is sunny go the tea-garden in front of Dolmabahçe Palace in Kabataş; watching the amazing scene of Bosphorus. In this tea garden Bosphorus is just in front of you..

don´t...it just comes from (sigara) içmek...so don´t... 

 İ dont care from where it comes! So i will still . İn english we use to smoke the cigarette ( or nargile) not to drink it.