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About 120 kilometers from Istanbul on the highway to Ankara, past Izmit and the industrial zone, a signboard directs the traveler to Sapanca a small town on the eastern shore of a lake by the same name, which during Byzantium and Ottoman times was an important center. The area, which takes its name from the town of Sapanca proper, may not be as widely known or promoted as other fashionable destinations in Turkey, but it has quite a lot to offer particularly to those who look for peace and tranquility. Have a fresh trout under the willow trees in quiet modest restaurant by the shore of the lake or rent a small boat late in the afternoon and slowly drift along with the gentle currents in blue waters and any accumulated stress will magically disappear.
Its very uncommon climate, with an almost constant level of humidity and clean air, makes Sapanca a sort of natural botanic park. Beautiful gardens can be seen almost everywhere - from the summer residences of wealthy families and personalities lining the lake shore and in luxury villas hidden behind lush plantations on the hillsides overlooking the lake to the more modest homes in the area. Along a stretch of road by the lake there are also a lot of very large nurseries where you can purchase a little piece of this beautiful nature to bring back home.
by Sandro Tucci
With the lazy dolce vita days of summer now gone, Istanbul is again abuzz with nervous energy and frantic vitality. Now it might be the perfect time to take a short break away from the hustle and the bustle of the city, enjoy the beautiful colors of autumn, indulge in your favorite activities and return refreshed and a little rejuvenated. In this issue we will take you to a few locations close to Istanbul, ideal to visit at any time, be it for a day or a weekend.
Polonezkoy
After leaving Beykoz, a 25 kilometer easy drive, first through the TEM highway and then on a wide two lane road winding through a forest of pine trees and green lands, will take you to the entrance of Polonezkoy - a charming village founded in 1842 by refugees from Poland.
Following the 1772 treaty partitioning Poland, Ottoman lands had become a shelter for Polish refugees. The exiled Polish leader Prince Czartoryski founded a Polish Agency in Istanbul in 1841. One year later he received permission from the Ottoman government to establish a Polish colony on 5,000 acres of land near Istanbul which belonged to the Lazarists. During a religious ceremony on March 19, 1842, the village was given the name of Adampol after the name of Prince Adam. Almost two centuries have gone by since then, but the village, now known as Polonezkoy has kept some of its ancestral flavor. The few hundred descendants of the original settlers who are left run family-owned pensions, farm the land mainly for organic products, make their own cherry and walnut liqueur and bake Polish pies and breads.
A short drive past a big welcoming yellow sign, the church, and a catholic cemetery is the main village square. This is the center of Polonezkoy's life, where the muhtar, also of Polish descent, holds office and flowers grow under the shade of an old tree. Next to the tea house, Hayriye Teyze (Aunt) has a large collection of homemade jams and many varieties of honey - chestnut oregano and flower honey. On the opposite corner, colorful pumpkins of all possible shapes and sizes decorate the window of a family pansiyon (pension) with a small restaurant and tea garden. On the weekends, villagers make the place really lively as they bring their fresh produce to the open market and every year in June, during the Cherry Festival, girls in colorful costumes and young men in white and bordeaux traditional outfits sing old songs and the crowd of visitors is treated to the cherries for which Polonezkoy is famous.
There are plenty of nice places to visit in Polonezkoy: the house where the founder of the Turkish Republic Mustafa Kemal Ataturk stopped once for a brief visit - now a small museum; beautiful forested parklands; old wooden houses; and a few shops with local produce and crafts. And those who like a more active outdoor life have quite a choice. Horses are available for rent in the main square, there is a very pleasant five kilometer trekking path where you can even collect heavenly wild berries, a number of well kept tennis courts, and cycling or swimming are available. You can also simply relax undisturbed in a hammock under the cherry trees.
Again in the main square a sign board will direct you to a variety of places. One of them, just a few steps away, is the Leonardo Restaurant & Cafe run by the Dohoda family and located in a faithfully restored 80 year-old rustic house made of chestnut wood. The premises are spread over a quite large green area with a good size swimming pool and lots of places to sit and relax. The restaurant has a distinct Central European feeling and it is one of the few places where you can try genuine Eastern European specialties such as Kievski, Borsch (if ordered in advance) and Mrs. Dohoda's special chestnut liqueur. During the weekends they serve a sumptuous brunch (45 YTL + drinks) while on weekdays lunch and dinners are a la carte.
In Polonezkoy, a number of old houses and villas have been converted into small hotels and pensions. The Polka Country Hotel is one of the few typical Polish houses left. Originally built in the 1800s, the main building and the stable were completely renovated about 10 years ago. The hotel has 15 rooms, a meeting room, swimming pool and a greenhouse restaurant and bar which serves international cuisine with polish accents, such as polka pastry chestnut pie and polka liqueur. The Hotel Club Adampol, located just past the Catholic Church, on the main road leading to the village, has 68 rooms, fitness center, tennis courts and a disco-night club.
Sile
As you reach Sile, a seaside resort on the Asian side of the Bosporus, you are welcomed by the cool fresh air of the Black Sea. Originally known with the Greek name of Philee, its history goes back to the seventh century B.C. when seamen - some say pirates - from Miletos settled there under the rule of the Bthynia kingdom. During the early years of Christianity, when the Romans were trying to prevent the spreading of the new religion, early converts took refuge on its shores and practiced their faith in hiding - even building underground churches in caves they carved themselves. The remains of one of these early places of worship can still be found today in Sofular Koyu.
During the summer months, its proximity to Istanbul makes Sile, with its long stretches of white sandy beaches (plaj) and cool waters, a very popular spot for all those who are trying to escape the heat of the city. The Kumbaba Plaji, dotted with many restaurants and cafes, is famous for the healing power of its sands and is a particularly popular spot for beachgoers. Then near the harbor is the Ayazma Plaji. Further to the east of town, standing on a massive rock above the marina and the Fener Plaji is the Sile Kalesi (Genoese Fortress), a fortress originally built under Byzantium rule to prevent attacks from the sea and later used by the Ottomans for similar purposes.
Not far away, high above over a hill, stands the symbol of Sile: the black and white Sile Feneri (lighthouse), one of the biggest in the world. It was built under the rule of Abdulaziz in 1858-59 to help ships find their way back from the Black Sea during the Crimean War. In the three acre park that surrounds the lighthouse, is the Kavala Restaurant and Cafe whose owner makes a special effort to give the place an authentic feeling by using simple wooden furniture. Outdoor dining facilities are available with an indoor section for cooler days with two fireplaces, open and closed bar areas and the nargile (water pipe smoking) and coffee corners offer a lovely view of the sea. The menu is simple but tasteful.
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